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Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysics
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysics
$18,800
Seller
Eternity Jewelry Corp dba Happy Jewelers
16
US
Rolex Day-Date II President 18k Yellow Gold Men's 40mm Watch...
TOP
Rolex Day-Date II President 18k Yellow Gold Men's 40mm Watch...
$29,750
Seller
DeMesy Fine Watches
78
US
Breguet Classique Day Date Moonphase
TOP
Breguet Classique Day Date Moonphase
$22,900
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
31
US
Richard Mille RM 010
TOP
Richard Mille RM 010
$92,699
Free shipping
Seller
Express Watches
7
US
Rolex Daytona 116518LN  (NEW)
TOP
Rolex Daytona 116518LN (NEW)
$26,350
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex 18k yellow gold
TOP
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex 18k yellow gold
$3,975
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
31
US
Rolex DAY-DATE 40mm 18K Yellow Gold President Diamond Dial ...
TOP
Rolex DAY-DATE 40mm 18K Yellow Gold President Diamond Dial ...
$31,999
Free shipping
Seller
Avi & Co NY
96
US
Patek Philippe : Worldtime 5130 :  5130R-018 :  18k rose gold
TOP
Patek Philippe : Worldtime 5130 : 5130R-018 : 18k rose gold
$34,200
Seller
Bernard Watch Co.
282
US
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chrono Voyage Blue
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chrono Voyage Blue
$24,000
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex Men's Day-Date 36mm Morellis President Blue Roman Dial...
TOP
Rolex Men's Day-Date 36mm Morellis President Blue Roman Dial...
$9,987
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26320OR.OO.1220OR.01
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26320OR.OO.1220OR.01
$48,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228235 18k Rose Gold Green Roman...
TOP
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228235 18k Rose Gold Green Roman...
$32,499
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex Day-Date 40 228238 NEW
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 40 228238 NEW
$28,500
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Summer Edition
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Summer Edition
$57,999
Free shipping
Seller
Express Watches
7
US
Baume & Mercier Clifton 18k Rose gold and diamond bezel
TOP
Baume & Mercier Clifton 18k Rose gold and diamond bezel
$4,950
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
31
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$21,500
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm Black Dial
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm Black Dial
$39,500
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Patek Philippe Twenty~4
Patek Philippe Twenty~4
$27,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex MidSize President 31mm Factory Diamond Dial Box Books 68278
TOP
Rolex MidSize President 31mm Factory Diamond Dial Box Books 68278
$11,581
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Richard Mille RM 67-01 Extra Flat
Richard Mille RM 67-01 Extra Flat
$112,000
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex Yacht Master II 116688 18k Yellow Gold Oyster 44mm...
TOP
Rolex Yacht Master II 116688 18k Yellow Gold Oyster 44mm...
$36,799
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex Yacht-Master II NEW HANDS (NEW)
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master II NEW HANDS (NEW)
$35,500
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Rolex Submariner Date 18K Yellow Gold 16618
Rolex Submariner Date 18K Yellow Gold 16618
$20,495
Seller
Kara's Watches
176
US
Breguet Classique 5140BB 18k white gold
TOP
Breguet Classique 5140BB 18k white gold
$13,100
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
31
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus
$52,500
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm Rose Gold Diamonds
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm Rose Gold Diamonds
$125,000
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Chopard Mille Miglia Gran Turismo Limited edition
Chopard Mille Miglia Gran Turismo Limited edition
$16,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm Fact Diamond Dial Bezel Box...
TOP
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm Fact Diamond Dial Bezel Box...
$9,861
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800 with a Blue Dial
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800 with a Blue Dial
$38,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex President Day-date 40mm 228238 18k Yellow Gold White...
TOP
Rolex President Day-date 40mm 228238 18k Yellow Gold White...
$29,799
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex Yacht-Master
$20,900
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Patek Philippe 3520 Calatrava 18K Yellow Gold Manual Wind...
Patek Philippe 3520 Calatrava 18K Yellow Gold Manual Wind...
$7,300
Seller
European Watch Company
184
US
Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold 126715 CHNR NEW
Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold 126715 CHNR NEW
$35,995
Seller
Kara's Watches
176
US
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
$34,900
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
$117,000
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$25,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm White MOP Diamond Boxes Papers
TOP
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm White MOP Diamond Boxes Papers
$8,842
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time  26120OR.OO.D002CR.01
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time 26120OR.OO.D002CR.01
$27,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex President Day-date 228238 18k Yellow Gold Silver Motif...
TOP
Rolex President Day-date 228238 18k Yellow Gold Silver Motif...
$29,799
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex Day-Date 40 Green Roman Dial 228235
Rolex Day-Date 40 Green Roman Dial 228235
$30,100
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Patek Philippe 3848/8 Golden Ellipse 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet...
Patek Philippe 3848/8 Golden Ellipse 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet...
$4,750
Seller
European Watch Company
184
US
Rare Vintage Cadola Chronograph Landeron Gold Color Men's...
Rare Vintage Cadola Chronograph Landeron Gold Color Men's...
$700
Seller
ExpertsWatches
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition "lebron James"
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition "lebron James"
$68,900
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Rolex Day-Date President Yellow Gold Black Diamond and Ruby Dial
Rolex Day-Date President Yellow Gold Black Diamond and Ruby Dial
$19,500
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Breguet Classique
Breguet Classique
$32,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex Men's Day-Date President 36mm Rhodium Diamond Dial Box...
TOP
Rolex Men's Day-Date President 36mm Rhodium Diamond Dial Box...
$6,674
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6023BA Yellow Gold
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6023BA Yellow Gold
$16,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228238 18k Yellow Gold Champagne...
TOP
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228238 18k Yellow Gold Champagne...
$29,799
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326135 (NEW)
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326135 (NEW)
$30,800
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Patek Philippe 6000G-001 Calatrava Black Dial 18K White Gold /...
Patek Philippe 6000G-001 Calatrava Black Dial 18K White Gold /...
$16,900
Seller
European Watch Company
184
US
Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Skeleton
$19,999
Free shipping
Seller
Express Watches
7
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$17,500
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm Perpetual Calendar Blue Dial...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm Perpetual Calendar Blue Dial...
$86,250
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Girard Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar
Girard Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar
$15,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm Diamond Dial Bezel Papers
TOP
Rolex Lady-President DateJust 26mm Diamond Dial Bezel Papers
$9,978
Free shipping
Seller
Mt. Vernon Specialties
13
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26401RO.OO.A002...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26401RO.OO.A002...
$38,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228235 18k Rose Gold Chocolate...
TOP
Rolex President 40mm Day-date 228235 18k Rose Gold Chocolate...
$30,199
Seller
Diamonds East International
54
US
Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex GMT-Master II
$26,399
Seller
Labelle Jewelry
59
US
Rolex 116618LB Submariner 18K Yellow Gold Blue Dial (29619)
Rolex 116618LB Submariner 18K Yellow Gold Blue Dial (29619)
$28,500
Seller
European Watch Company
184
US
Bovet Amadeo Fleurier 43 Monsieur Bovet AI43005
Bovet Amadeo Fleurier 43 Monsieur Bovet AI43005
$30,000
Seller
LuxWatch.Com
35
US
Patek Philippe World Time
Patek Philippe World Time
$26,500
Seller
Watch Expo
 
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$16,950
Seller
Beverly Hills Watch Company
32
US
Cartier Ballon Bleau Chrono 18Kt XL
Cartier Ballon Bleau Chrono 18Kt XL
$21,500
Seller
VALOBRA Jewelry & Antiques
 
US
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.

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